Parts Required:

• Transmission cooler with 1/2 inch bore (5/8" preferable) and a thickness of 3/4 inch ( maximum core size is 24" x 12")
• 5 ft. Hose (5/8")
• 4 Hose clamps
• Hacksaw blade or mini hacksaw (handgrip type) or heavy duty metal snips
• 15 mm Brass pipe coupler (The presoldered ones for water pipes are ideal) or two 3/4" to 5/8" couplers
• 1 ft. Hose (3/4")

Procedure:

First do all the dry stuff:

1. Unfasten the wing nut holding on the airbox.
2. Unfasten the hose clamp at the turbo end of the long induction pipe that runs across the radiator and remove the whole assembly (Makes access to the pipes a lot easier).
3. Remove the Torx screws holding the front grille to the radiator. Be careful with the metal mounts that they screw into as age makes them brittle and prone to bending. There's two in the center and one at each side.
4. Remove the bolts (One each side) that holds the bottom of the grille to the fender. You need a 1/2" socket on a long extension to reach up the inside corner of the fender/bumper to the bolt.
5. Once the bolts are out remove the grill - A sort of pull forward from the top maneuver to ease the lipped bottom around the bumper. (You might have to squeeze the bumper a little to get it out, depending how close the bumper is fixed to the front of the truck.) Unclip the indicator wiring as it becomes accessible.
6. Unclip the hood release cable from the hood latch support.
7. Remove the two nuts from the top and the one from the bottom of the hood latch support. The support should come off easily.
8. Now comes the 'cut metal' chore. The pressed sheet metal that extends from top to bottom of the radiator is not needed (It provides no hood support, etc.). Sawing it off you have to be very careful not to damage the fins on the radiator. Take it slowly and patiently, especially when the cut is nearly through. A standard hacksaw has too much protruding past the blade but one of those flat metal saws (Looks like a wood saw but with a hacksaw blade clamped on it) or something similar is ideal. A blade clamped in one of those blade holders is acceptable but tricky to use. If you have some metal snips that'll cut through fairly thick metal then you may be able to use them instead of the saw (This should allow you to remove the metal in a couple of minutes). File down the metal and apply some Hammerite or other paint to protect the exposed metal from corrosion.
9. Now mount your new intercooler to the radiator. The standard rubber stand-offs that come with some cooler kits are usually too thick and require cutting back to about 1/4" thickness. Mount the intercooler and lift the hood latch support back to where it normally sits to check that the clearance is sufficient.

Now the wet stuff:

1. Take the cap off the charge cooler and undo the tap at the bottom of the charge cooler radiator to drain the coolant out. Once empty tighten the tap back.
2. Look at the right side of the engine bay where the two CAC coolant pipes meet and the rubber hoses fasten. The rear pipe is the coolant return to the intercooler, the front pipe is the one that goes to the pump. Unfasten the pipe on the coolant return and remove the hose clamp.
3. Re-route the hose so that its just reaching the bottom right corner of the fender where it meets the bumper. There's a large hole below the right side of the headlight, above the indicator, and the pipe just reaches to it.
4. Take about a 2' length of new hose to go from the bottom pipe of the new intercooler to the existing hose at the corner. Join them with the brass coupler. (The new hose side will clamp with no problem but the existing larger 3/4" hose will need a bit of tape wrapping around its half of the couple to pad it out - Clamp firmly.). If you can find a 3/4" to 5/8" reducer then use this to ensure a good connection.
5. Route the rest of the new hose from the top of the new intercooler to the metal coolant return pipe where the existing hose was removed from. The pipe goes through a circular hole, just big enough to take it, where the air intake is. If you're worried about losing space for the air being sucked in, pop out the flat plastic blanker that is shown on the photo between the pipe and the head light.
6. Fit the new pipe to the metal coolant return pipe and clamp it. The 5/8" hose is a tight fit but once its on it'll stay on. If you cant get the hose on, use a 3/4" to 5/8" coupler and a short length of 3/4" tubing to make the connection easier.
7. CHECK all hose connections and routings.
8. Refill the Intercooler slowly with coolant.
9. If you've got a manual IC switch then put the engine on ignition and get the pump going, otherwise stick a paperclip into the A-B pins of the ALDL and switch the ignition on (This energizes all solenoids and starts the pump). Keep filling the intercooler until its full. With a better pump you should see the coolant moving. With the stock pump its barely visible.
10. If everything is OK then start to reassemble by reversing the removal procedure for the hood latch support, the grille, and the air box.
11. Check after a while to see if the coolant level needs topping up.

Reverting Back (Additional Information)

If you leave the hose from the intercooler to the brasscoupler long enough then you should be able to remove the airbox, undo the clamp and re-route it back to the stock positionquickly without removing the grill. (But don't forget to drainthe coolant first).